by Hala Abdulmalak
The first time I saw the “shirwel” or “harem pants” (as they call them in the Western world) on catwalks and in high street fashion, I could not help stop the overwhelming feeling of frustration that took over. I mean here I was looking at one of the single most traditional Lebanese clothing items becoming famous in a contemporary context. Great no? Except that it had become a fashion statement by Western designers. I kept on wondering why Arab designers were not using their heritage but leaving it to their Western counterparts?
I want to say that this is not the case for everyone. I want to shed the light on three successful examples (and three of my favorite brands) that use their National and/or Arab legacy in their designs.
Azza Fahmy
For those who don’t know her, Azza Fahmy is an Egyptian high-end jewelry designer. She blends traditional Egyptian motifs and modern design to create unique rooted pieces. The idiosyncratic forms, textures, colors, and calligraphy of the country inspire Fahmy’s designs; working with various precious metals and stones, she transforms them into pieces with meaning and depth. Cairo, the largest city in the Arab world nicknamed "The City of a Thousand Minarets," is an endless source of inspiration. From the rituals of old Cairo to the customs of the more contemporary city of today of almost 20 million inhabitants, Fahmy works all of that in her pieces. You feel you are wearing a part of nostalgia of a rich and vast culture.
Sarah’s Bag
This is what success is, pure and simple. Two Sarahs, friends, self-taught designers, fashionable bags, celebrating heritage, Lebanese, modern yet retro, nostalgic, distinctive, and I could go on. I love this brand, not only for its brilliant products but also for what it stands for. The company is set up as part of a rehabilitation program, where women at risk from economic depravation or the stigma of having served time in prison would produce the bags and consequently learn valuable skills, have a steady income and regain self-worth. Pretty impressive, no? That is not all, their bags are really awesome too. The bag I have has graffiti on it with “Beirut La Tamout” or “Beirut doesn’t die,” which I love, but the one I really want to get next is the Bonjus bag. As a Lebanese, this bag captures my youth impeccably. I love it!
7ob design
7ob is a Saudi clothing label with a concept, which applies and exploits Arabic visual imagery. It is great to have such a strong dichotomy translated into visual fashion slogans on t-shirts, mirroring the current Arab youth who battles daily between global influences and tradition and identity. The conflicting identity results in a hybrid model reflected by irony in many of the designs that use slang and street saying or visuals married with traditional calligraphy.
The message is even stronger because it originates from Saudi, where is very high. But although these statements can be read at face value, they can also be interpreted to mean something much deeper. Visually, they are very interesting as well using day-to-day representative icons, messages and symbols. It is like you are wearing your own statement!
The success of such brands and designers has led a new trend or visual style to be created and wanted, by both clients and consumers. More importantly, it has reminded designers to look back home for inspirations. An extension of this can be seen, for example, in some recent promo items that were developed by Tarek Atrissi Design for Dutch-Moroccan artist Rajae El Mouhandiz, linking fashion graphic and typographic elements.
